BONSAI
(Japanese)
Translation – Bon = shallow
tray or container; Sai = a plant or planting
Bonsai, in essence, however combines a stylish marriage of
artistic expression and naturalistic effect that distinguishes
a Bonsai from a tree that is merely planted in a pot.
The Japanese styling of Bonsai has become very classical and
fairly rigid. While Bonsai has become more influential this
century, it originally developed as an art form in China over
the last 1 800 years.
Bonsai proposes more technicality than its predecessor Penjing.
Bonsai (Japanese) styles and sub styles number well in excess
of 50 for the purists.
PENJING (Chinese)
Originally known as Pen Zai
about 265 – 420 AD by the Qing Dynasty. Later changed
to Penjing in its present form at about the same era in the
Song Dynasty and has become one of the arts of daily life
in China. Penjing is a much older art form in China and only
became popular or defined in Japan in the late 19th and early
20th Century.
Penjing embraces the arrangement of rocks, wood, water &
trees, miniature buildings, animals and people.
Penjing is very natural compared to Bonsai. Penjing has 12
forms and 19 sub styles.
The art has spread throughout the world and today and predominantly
since the 2nd World War The globe is broken down into regions
as it has become apparent that while the Japanese classical
styles & classifications are the basic standard, these
stylings do not always portray the naturalness of species
displayed in different regions and climates.
Africa has recently become
an official region in the World Bonsai Association and includes
Israel. The African Bonsai Association was formed in November
2002 at the 1st International Bonsai Convention held at Safari
Park in Pretoria. This convention exhibited the largest number
of trees ever exhibited at one time any where in the world,
with some 1 300 trees on display.
Several world reknown masters
and demonstrators gave workshops and demonstrations.
At present the Africa Region
includes South Africa, Namibia, Zimbabwe, Burkino Fasso, with
countries such as Isreal, Mauritius, Kenya, Malawi, expected
to join very soon. The Chairman of ABA is Charles Poole from
South Africa.
Charles Ceronio, the leading
South African master, has now identified and classified 6
basic African styles that have now become internationally
accepted. The styles typify the essence of the African Bushveld
while incorporating the principles of the classical judging
requirements of the Japanese schools.
The African styles
are: -
Baobab
Pierneef
Flat Top
Bushveld
Wild Fig
Elbow or Wonderboom.
These styles are discussed
in detail in Charles Ceronio’s authoritative and respected
book “Bonsai Styles of the World”published in
1999. The book has recently received rave reviews in “Bonsai
Today”.
These styles group the appearance
of African trees in their natural states, each of which are
a result of climates, soil types, and regions of Africa.
Bonsai enthusiasts in Southern
Africa have still however followed traditional Japanese principles
when dealing with the Conifer group of trees. The major difficulties
in Africa in remaining consistently true to the classical
approach are the higher temperatures, light intensity and
consequently higher rate of growth. This growth rate makes
Bonsai in Africa more difficult, as trees tend to get rangy
and only with proper control patience can major features such
as trunk width and ageing be achieved.
The Zimbabwean word for Bonsai,
is “Kamuti” (small trees) first used by Will E.
Bollman in his book “Kamuti – A New Way in Bonsai”
published in 1974.
Bonsai trees, contrary to popular conception, must be kept
outside. If a tree is kept in doors any longer than a few
days, it will deteriorate rapidly and even die.
Whatever the style a Bonsai enthusiast wishes to follow, there
are certain key principles that define the future of your
trees. It must be remembered that Bonsai is not a short-term
hobby.
Bonsai is a lifetime passion
and many years of living with your trees is required to understand
your climate, the trees themselves, how different species
require different treatment to achieve best effect, and what
peculiarities each tree has depending on where it is located
in your Bonsai display area.
Proportion
Proportion is the key element
to a highly rated exhibition tree. This key proportion relationship
is between the Crown and the Trunk and understanding the deceptions
that this relationship can create.
The tighter and smaller the Crown is the greater the enhancement
of the Truck will be. The trunk achieves the deception of
age.
The key proportions
to consider are: -
Thickness in relation to height;
Trunk length in relation to Branch length;
Crown Spread to Pot size;
Branch Spacing in relation to Trunk relevance.
Form & Style
Each tree has inherent in it
a form dictated by its species and its natural habitat. An
understanding of this important aspect allows the artist to
make decisions regarding the options available for the tree
to be worked on.
Alternatives and Options
It must be remembered that
you as the artist must be able to enjoy the tree. You have
to look at it every day, not the competition judges. When
preparing a tree for a competition, certain judging categories
have to be considered to achieve good competition results.
Be that as it may, when evaluating a tree, it important to
be able to identify which aspects of the specimen to be worked
on causes you as the artist to embrace the tree, rather than
being guided entirely by the technical issues. When making
this initial evaluation all the alternatives must be explored
that take into account: -
Impact;
Focal Point;
Aspect (the Front);
Proportion;
Movement;
Form;
Harmony;
Rhythm;
Balance;
Silhouette;
Overall potential;
Light Penetration;
Health of various parts of the tree and Roots (Strong, weak,
dead & alive);
Directional Line;
Profile & Perspective;
Deception.
Understanding these issues
is very important before making the final decision to use
the scissors.
Ageing
One of the major objectives
of Bonsai is to make the tree take on the appearance of age
by looking sturdy, in some cases gnarled, and in others, that
parts of it have died or become weathered as trees would naturally
do in the wild.
Ageing takes some experience of techniques and how to apply
them to different species of tree.
It requires different use of specialized hand & power
tools as well as chemicals and heat.
The processes are classified as Jinning and Shari.
Shaping
Trees are shaped in accordance
with effects to be achieved and the styling being applied
to the tree being worked on.
Shaping is achieved by a number of techniques, namely: -
Pruning;
Pinching;
Wiring & Bending;
Weights;
Major cutting;
Carving;
Burning;
Brushing;
Root pruning;
Grafting;
Air layering.
Knowledge of the limitations
of each of these techniques must be understood and especially
their impact on and relevance to different species.
You don’t make mistakes
with shaping a Bonsai Tree, but there are better ways to do
things than others. Remember a tree is alive and will do its
own thing and grow in a different way after you have reshaped
it.
Those who have long-term objectives for a tree, say over four
to five years, or longer and who understand how each species
behaves, will shape a tree over several growing seasons to
achieve the desired long-term effect.
This is an Art of extreme patience,
but very relaxing and rewarding.
To understand shaping and the
effects you can achieve it is important to know the difference
between Apical & Basal Dominance.
Apical (Apex or Real Trees)
Such plants grow naturally
upwards on a single trunk and branch well above ground level.
Basal (Base or Real Shrubs)
These types grow low to the
ground and spread laterally. They often re-shoot from the
base over the seasons.
Knowing which type of plant
you are dealing with assists with understanding the shaping
that should be applied and what can be achieved over time.
GROWING THE TREE
A basic knowledge of horticulture
will definitely assist.
Where do I get a Bonsai Tree
from and how do I start?
What do I need to begin?
How do I get help?
The Tree
Trees can be grown from seed;
this is a long slow process. Generally only experienced Bonsai
artists grow trees from seed for specific varieties. Using
this method a tree may be grown and trained over the first
3 to 5 years of its life to achieve certain desired effects
over the long term.
Nursery stock can be used,
but in general in Zimbabwe, nursery stock start their life
closely packed together and as a result get very rangy because
growth is rapid.
Older nursery stock is often best. Such trees are usually
found out of the main display areas as they have become unattractive
for the average gardener’s needs. These specimens are
often gnarled deformed and on the face of it look weird. This
is ideal Bonsai Stock. It takes a trained eye to recognize
future potential.
Nursery stock often needs growing out in the garden on a slab
for a year or two, to thicken the truck and spread or flatten
the roots for future Bonsai potting.
Lastly trees in existing gardens
or in the bush make ideal examples for a quick start into
the art. Using this method of collecting allows the collector
to select specimens with greater trunk width from the outset.
If you wish to start Bonsai
as a hobby, it is recommended that you obtain a few trees
of different ages otherwise you may get bored initially as
progress always seems slow. Try to get some starter trees
at the Society meetings and always try to buy a few maturing
or mature Bonsai Trees so that you get the idea of what you
are trying to achieve with the younger trees.
At Society meetings, do a lot
of watching, listening, asking questions and participating.
For the beginner it is important to participate. It is important
to touch and feel the trees and to work on your own trees
under the eye of an experienced Bonsai artist or teacher.
Soil
You will see a lot of trees
in Harare potted in RED soil. It is strongly recommended that
you do not use red soil; it is not porous enough to achieve
long-term success.
Soil for successful Bonsai
growing, must have good drainage. The pots in which you pot
trees must have very good drainage. The pot drainage will
be discussed later.
A soil mixture must be made
that suits the tree. Conifers require more sand than deciduous
trees.
Advanced growers have their own preferred soil mixture.
Our preferred mixture
is:-
1 part sifted large particle
sand
1 part clean topsoil
1 part leaf mold and or compost to which add bone meal and
fertlizer.
Before starting a potting exercise
make sure you have you mixture ready as it is important not
to have roots exposed to the air for too long.
What do you need to pot a tree
for the first time, or to carry out your annual repotting
session?
Last year we repotted well
over 150 trees over about 6 weeks.
A bath of water;
The pot to receive the tree with drainage holes prepared;
Root combing tools;
Pruning tools (Root & Branch);
Small tins or soil scoops;
Kitchen spoon and fork;
Chopstick or a similar straight rod;
Mist Sprayer;
Copper or Aluminium wire;
Procedure
a) Soak the tree to be repotted
in the bath of water to soften the existing soil. Sometimes
it may be necessary to do this overnight;
b) Having soaked the tree, carefully break off the old soil
without damaging the roots. When most of the soil is removed
by hand, place back in the water and gently comb out all the
soil and wash the roots. (Except for conifers);
c) Study the roots for disease and remove diseased areas;
d) Test shape of the roots against the pot to be used and
prune in accordance the positioning;
e) Prune branches into line with growth potential and shape
you are looking for; (this stage depends on the tree you are
dealing with and the season);
f) Place the tree back in the water making sure the roots
are completely covered.
g) Place drainage rubble in the bottom of the pot especially
over the drainage holes.
h) Add a layer of soil;
i) Place the tree in the desired position and angle remembering
it must not be in the centre of the pot;
j) Hold the tree steady (ideally you need some one to hold
the tree still) and fill the pot gradually with the prepared
soil mixture;
k) Push the soil between the roots very thoroughly as it is
important to ensure all air spaces are filled;
l) Push soil down reasonably firmly and mist spray the surface
until quite wet;
m) After the soil has sagged, fill pot to just below the rim
and press down again;
n) Leave pot in shaded position for about a week before moving
into full sun.
In certain cases, during repotting
or initial potting, it may be necessary to anchor the tree
with wire and wood supports.
It is very important that the tree remains moist at all times.
Watering
Watering is the most important
function of the Bonsai enthusiast. Trees must be watered every
day and preferably at the same time of day. We have found
that the best time for our display area is mid morning.
It is important that watering is not done with a blasting
hosepipe, as this will dislodge soil around the trunk and
expose the roots. If this practice is continuous trunk distortion
will result due to a build up of soil on one side of the pot.
This leads to uneven root growth and a weakness on one side
of the tree, or narrowing of the trunk and branch concentration.
One of the key principles of Bonsai is to thicken the base
of the trunk; poor watering as described is the quickest way
to prevent this thickening.
As the display Bonsai pot is
very shallow, the importance of daily watering cannot be overstressed.
Following a watering session, whether by overhead misters,
watering can, a controlled hose pipe, it is important to check
that the water is being absorbed. This absorption should take
no less than a minute or two. If there is still visible water
on the surface, this indicates a drainage deficiency that
must be addressed.
Causes: -
Blocked drainage holes;
Poor soil composition;
Earthworms.
Correction: -
Check drainage holes by piercing
from below with a piece of wire,
Mix in sand from the surface;
For earthworms apply Potassium Permanganate solution.
Certain types of trees e.g.
Junipers and Pines need their foliage flushed very frequently,
this prevents dust build up. Dust build up reduces the plants
ability to breath.
Watering should not be left
to an untrained gardener. Watering personally gives you a
chance to see the trees yourself and observe how the tree’s
general health is. E.g.
Over watering – yellowing
of leaves
Under-watering – leaves wilting
Trunk protection – soil washed away from trunk
Earthworms – worm castes on the surface
Weeds – taking up the fertilizer and nutrients from
the soil.
Note: - Baobabs must only be
watered with the first rains and until the rains cease. The
rest of the year it is essential they receive no water at
all.(I.e. from about April to August.) Because of this peculiarity,
Baobabs should be separated from the rest of your collection
so that they are not watered by mistake.
The most common observation
of people’s collections is poor soil coverage due to
bad watering techniques.
Ground Cover
Ground cover is made up of
mosses, small grasses, gravels, stones and driftwood.
The principles regarding ground
cover are that is should not take up more than about 40% of
the surface area, as it must not detract from the main objective,
which is the tree. In addition to this too much ground cover
competes with the tree for nutrients.
Heavy gravels are recommended
as not only do they add a natural aesthetic, but they also
help to reduce water flushing during daily watering. Rocks
and stones used other than in specific rock-style planting
should be in proportion to the pot and the tree to give a
realistic proportion to the whole display.
Driftwood is often used as
ground cover to give the impact of fallen branches.
Weeds
Weeds should be constantly
removed. Some weeds are thought of as ground cover. It is
important to know which ones they are as real ground covers
are surface feeders. Weeds penetrate deep into the pot and
take up vital nutrients.
Creeping sorrel, nut clover
and wild garlic are the most invasive weeds prevalent in the
Bonsai pot. Creeping sorrel will very quickly move completely
around the pot underground but give the appearance it is only
in a few places. As it generally keeps to the outside of the
pot, carefully breaking up the soil where it has broken the
surface will reveal the roots. Carefully following the roots
you can take out the whole lot in one go. Nut Clover &
Wild Garlic have to be dug out as the nut is often deep in
the container and unfortunately in amongst the roots.
Fertilizers
Super phosphate should be used
in the potting mixture when re potting.
A general multi purpose fertilizer
should be used on a weekly basis, applied by hand to each
tree. Small amounts frequently are better than over doing
it as too much can cause leaf burn. Fertilizer must be applied
to damp soil. Best effects are seen if applied immediately
after watering.
The effects are easily seen through the condition of the foliage,
which when fertilizer has been effective, will turn a bright
deep green.
Seasons
The growing season in Zimbabwe
starts with a vengeance in September/October when the first
vigorous growth begins to appear. The trees settle down in
about January/February and put on a last burst in late March/April.
Dormancy is therefore between
April & August. Deciduous Trees begin to look a bit scraggy
during this period as is natural. A tree needs this dormant
period to settle and get ready for the next growing season.
Do not get in a panic when this happens. Watering is stepped
down to an extent that just keeps the soil moist. As Bonsai
trees are usually displayed about a meter off the ground,
frost is not usually a problem.
Every Bonsai artist loses a
tree or two from various reasons each year. This is normal.
The tree itself is usually unhealthy anyway and primary causes
are poor or diseased roots, damaged roots, disease or just
a combination of things. Viewing your trees constantly is
the best way to identify health problems quickly.
Pruning
Pruning is the principal method
of shaping the tree. Pruning takes practice and a good deal
of study or watching experienced people in action. As you
get to know your individual trees you will learn how various
species react to pruning and regrowth. Knowledge of tree physiology
is a great help in the pruning exercise.
Tools
A combination of specialized
tools are used in Bonsai to achieve best results, however,
the beginner can achieve reasonable results with basic tools
such a secateurs, fine scissors, and a few other basics such
a very sharp grafting knife, spoons, forks, tweezers, wire,
chopsticks etc.
The specialized tools have
been designed over many years and for a purpose. Unfortunately
they are very expensive. The collection a good set of tools
should be done over a number of years while you decide if
the Art of Bonsai is for you.
It is important to sterilize tools between using them on different
trees so that infections are not transferred from one tree
to another. After a pruning session tools must be thoroughly
cleaned (a weak solution of “Jeyes Fluid” is ideal),
as some tree sap e.g. fig and conifer species, have a very
detrimental effect on the surface of the tools. When packing
tools away, a light coating of machine oil should be applied
to prevent rusting.
Pots
The pot is an integral part
of the whole display. It provides balance and helps to exaggerate
certain features of a good tree. Pots are a subject on their
own. While the standard of pots available in Zimbabwe is only
average, very good pots can be obtained from South Africa.
Motivation
The foregoing is an attempt
to give those interested a basic outline of the Art of Bonsai.
Those entering into this fascinating pastime will reap rich
rewards as it is very relaxing and therapeutic, very creative,
allows freedom of expression and Bonsai people are real fanatics,
they can hold conversations for hours just over a few trees.
Remember that all sincere hobbies,
ikabana, orchids, flower arranging, cake icing, philately,
numismatics, model airplanes etc all become a lifetime dedications.
Bonsai is no different. It
requires a great deal of patience, an artistic approach, vision
and attention to detail. All Bonsai artists continue to learn
at what ever level and the best way to learn is to join the
Bonsai Society in Zimbabwe. The society holds a monthly meeting
on the second Saturday of every month at a member’s
garden, where workshops and demonstrations as well as competitions
(and teas and eats) are held.
It must be a participative
art form so that individual experiences are gained from mistakes,
copying, watching, discussing & listening.
See you at the next meeting!!
Peter Wood & Caroline Bouwer
Phone 776171
e-mail – carpet@mweb.co.zw
|
